Night out in Shiraz: Quran Gate, Sonati Restaurant, and Selfies with Strangers

(PSA: First, I would like to apologize for posting my blogs so slowly. The Wi-Fi in Iran is SO slow that every time I upload photos online for a blog post I want to poke my eyes out. So please bear with me as I hurry to post blogs more frequently as I am getting very backed up.)

Shiraz has an amazing nightlife. Because the days are so hot, people stay in their air conditioned homes like hermits during the day but night is when the cities come to life. For example, stores in Iran are open from 9AM-1PM, close from 1PM-5PM, and reopen again at 5PM until midnight or so (restaurants are open even later). Iranian people love to pack their kitchens and living rooms into their cars and come out to the parks and green spaces at night, throw out blankets, and have luxurious picnics for themselves.

Last night, a couple of our relatives and my family went out to the Quran Gate, which is a great place to visit during night or day.

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The Quran Gate is a historic gate located in the north of Shiraz, Iran. It is located at the northeastern entrance of the city in the direction of Isfahan. Years ago, beneath the gate was a road and cars had to drive underneath the gate if they were headed North out of the city. In recent years because the population of Iran has skyrocketed, they have had to expand the roads and highways and the road underneath the Quran Gate has been transformed into a pedestrian only path.

The Gate was built during the reign of Adud ad-Dawla and was restored during the Zand dynasty. During the Zand dynasty, two small rooms were built on top of the gate in which were kept two hand written Qurans by Sultan Ibrahim Bin Shahrukh Gerekani. It was believed that travelers passing underneath the gate would receive the blessing of the Holy Book as they began their journey from Shiraz.

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Today the gate is a part of a city park where people relax and picnic. To the side of the Gate is a hill on which restaurants and museums are built. We ate at a sonati (traditional-style) restaurant for dinner. Traditional style restaurants in Iran are really cool, the seating consists of raised platforms that are built and covered with rugs and pillows and you have to take off your shoes to sit on the platform. To eat dinner, you throw down a plastic tablecloth in front of you and eat sitting down.

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P.S.: You wouldn’t want to go to a sonati restaurant without ordering tea and a hookah for your booth (it’s the culture;)

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We ordered one chicken kabob to share and three deezy sangy’s–a traditional Persian meal that is basically like beef and vegetable stew that is prepared in a stone dish. The dish comes with a bowl and a meat tenderizer. To eat a deezy, you pour the stew into your bowl and beat the beef and vegetables with the tenderizer.

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This man was standing outside the restaurant and holding burning incents in his hands to wish peace and luck on those who walk into the restaurant. He is dressed in traditional Persian attire.

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Just a couple of the pretty sites up on the hill by the pedestrian path of the Gate that features a gift shop and a waterfall.

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The picture below is a funny story. This random Iranian girl saw me taking pictures at the Quran Gate (I guess she must have assumed I was a tourist, I don’t know why…) and asked for a picture. I first thought she meant if she wanted me to take a picture of her, so I asked “How?”. She replies, “No, with your camera.” At which point I’m totally confused and ask, “How do I send you the picture then?” After a few seconds of confusion, turns out she wants to take a picture with me and she doesn’t want the picture for herself, she says “No, just for you.” After we take the picture she asks me where I’m from and I was a bit annoyed at this point because I was trying really hard to fit in and not look like a tourist since I’m Iranian….and I say I’m from “here” and she says “nooo…”. I half lied but I really stumped her. My guess is she thought I was from America and wanted to take a picture with me so I could put it on the internet and she could become famous, so here you go nameless girl! 🙂

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The picture below is of the Persian poet: Khaju-e Kermani. He was a follower of Saddi and thus followed him to Shiraz. Khaju’s grave is located right next to the quoran gate. There is a monument built in his honor with a sculpture of him and one of his poems is engraved in stone on the brick wall.

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